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Step by step instructions for installing plastic windows
Recently, an acquaintance contacted me and asked if I could install it myself. After retiring, he decided to build a country house by himself to occupy his place. It can be said to be an information database, which is ready at all stages.
As a window expert, I came in handy. I developed a short action plan for him and decided to consider all the questions in my blog in detail.
Further find all the principles and nuances of the installation window structure in this article. Techniques and steps for installing plastic windows by hand. Installing plastic windows by hand How to install plastic windows with your own hands. Open the package of the window. Remove the glass unit. Remove the door leaf. fastener. Installation type. Fix with anchor bolts. Insulation Materials. Opening preparations. Low tide installation. Assemble the windows. Install window sills. Install ramps. Install plastic windows with your own hands How to install windows with your own hands. Part 2 Preparation of some tools and materials Others Window installation technology The frame is installed in the window block. We put the double glazing in the proper place. Install the protective tape from the outside.
Installing plastic windows by yourself is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. 
However, in order to install plastic windows correctly, you need to know a few things.
We draw your attention to the instructions for automatic installation of plastic windows.
Support the installation and adjustment of configuration files for future use. A groove is formed in the wall at the fixing point of the fastener. Insert and place a plastic window horizontally and vertically. Fasten the window to the opening with fasteners.
Slot between plastic window and window opening.
If you are building a private house, the last point can be done at the end of all work. 
If you live in an apartment, you must perform low tide installation after inserting windows without double glazing.
For this reason, before installing the window, remove the glass beads (slide between the glass beads and the rubber gasket with a screwdriver, and then force the glass out of the groove), and then remove the double glass.
Therefore, it is easy to align and install the landing gear through the window.

Place the profile in the correct position, align it horizontally and foam.
But before foaming, it is best to put a window on the profile to see if it usually fits the remaining space.
If there is too much free space at the top, something should be placed under the outline. It is best to insert the supporting profile directly into the bottom groove of the window. If the configuration file is not provided in the configuration, the block needs to be placed at the height of the window sill under the window in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. After the installation of the support profile is complete, proceed to the window installation. It is recommended not to tear off the protective tape until all work is completely completed. In order to improve the thermal insulation performance of the window, the extended nozzle on the assembly gun can be used to foam the space in the support profile. First, you need to fix the fastener to the window to be fixed. It is best to use a flat anchor plate. Their position should be perpendicular to the plane of the window, 11-21 cm away from the corners of the frame. Fix it to the window with a metal self-tapping screw about 11 cm long (a self-tapping screw is screwed from the outside from the pin at the end of the anchor plate into the frame, and from the other end of the wall into the wall nail and the pin). If you insert a plastic window (with an empty frame) without a double-glazed window, use a dowel to screw the fastening screw into the wall from the inside of the frame, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure. After fixing the anchor in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After that, where the anchors will be connected to the wall in the future, we will make a notch under the entire fastener plate so that later we will cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall to install the slope. After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its verticality and level again. Therefore, you should not completely screw the screw into the opening immediately. It is best to perform the leveling together so that one person can hold the window and another person can place it on the leveling rod. We continue to fill the space between the window opening and the plastic window with mounting foam. If the distance between the window and the opening is greater than 2 cm, it can be foamed in two stages.
Only then will the foam be as tight as possible to the structure of the wall.
If you install the windows at a temperature below 5 degrees, please use all-season or winter polyurethane foam. If the temperature exceeds 5 degrees, any foaming will occur. The installation of the window sill requires pre-cutting the excess length, because its size has some margin.
For this, a puzzle or grinder is perfect. Then, the window sill should be moved to the support profile (if any) and aligned.
If there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening after alignment, it is best to remove the window sill first, and then seal it with a solution. 
If everything is fine, then simple foaming is sufficient. Don't forget to put the plug on the windowsill. It is recommended to cut the window sill to make it fit the plug clearly in the opening. It is best to use super glue to glue the cap to the window sill.
After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for sinking by hand pressing in multiple places. If everything is fine, you can start foaming after pressing the window sill with a heavy object (such as a few bottles of water) to prevent the polyurethane foam from bulging upward. The next day, you can use an ordinary knife to remove excess foam under the windowsill.
By the way, you can install a window sill, the slope between the window sill and the window is small (literally 2-3 degrees), so as not to see water between the window glass and the window sill. Before installing the slope, you need to use a knife to remove the excess foam around the frame (it should be done very carefully to avoid damaging the window material). To install the ramp, take out the panel and cut it to the required length (two-the height of the opening, the third-the width of the opening).
After vertical alignment, fix it on the polyurethane foam. In order that the foam does not push the panel away from the wall, it must be attached to the wall with tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has solidified, the final composition must be done at the end of the panel. For this, there is a shape profile (due to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the bar).
First, insert it into the groove under the window, then level it, press it tightly, and fix it to the support profile with self-tapping screws and foam.
After installing the plastic window, adjust the accessories and put in the mosquito net. Window adjustment is a separate topic and will be introduced in a future article.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment to perform these activities.
Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost a lot of money, but if you install plastic windows yourself, you can reduce costs. Above, it is installed independently on each glass unit.
Only in the blog post "Building and Repairing", we will consider in detail the self-installation of plastic windows.
You will also find a special video about installing plastic windows in accordance with your own hands. There are two ways to install the window with and without opening the package. The type of fastener, the diagram, and the depth of immersion of the fastener.
And diffusion tape, placement location-chart.
Use your own hands to install the plastic gradient chart step by step.
There is no need to open the package of the window, without performing this operation.
Remove the glasses from the frame and place them in a specific position until they are installed.
After that, fix the frame on the wall with pins (through holes and through holes), and then install the glass beads and glass components back. Please note that there are many nuances in this method of installing plastic windows, and we will focus on you.
Because we chose this more laborious but safer installation method (for plastic double-glazed windows) to write the article, so of course, the video also shows the method of installing plastic windows with our own hands.
When removing the double-glazed window, you must be very careful, because careless handling of the glass beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches. The double glazing may accidentally break during removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.
If you perform this process without unpacking, you do not need to remove the glass and glass beads, because the base is fixed to the wall by fixing parts pre-installed in the outer area. However, this fastening method is not suitable for volumetric windows with larger mass.
It should also be kept in mind that the first method is best on higher floors (used from the 16th floor) because they have stronger wind gusts and wind resistance. If your apartment is located below, there is no need to open the double-glazed windows.
The conclusion drawn from this is that it is easier and more convenient to use the first technique to install windows by hand, but there is enough theoretical knowledge to let us start practicing. These parts may be blind holes or open sashes.
Now, let's take a look at how to remove the glass unit from the blind area of the window and how to remove the window sash correctly.
The window has been delivered to you. Before installation, you need to remove the double-glazed window from the blind area (non-opening) of the window. This is a plastic guide rail that directly fixes the glass unit, and it can be easily disassembled without hammering.
However, if the glass beads sink to the end in the manufacturer’s company, it is necessary to insert a small spatula in the seam between the glass beads and the window frame and carefully strike the mallet (wooden center) from the center of the window to its periphery. Hammer), try to remove the glass beads (4 in total).
After the glass beads enter and start to come out of the groove, the plastic clips begin to fall off and they must be assembled, because we will need them when reinstalling the glass beads.
What we think is not worth reminding is that all operations must be performed very carefully to avoid breaking expensive double-glazed windows.
It is best to do this together, because it is not easy to pick up a double-glazed window with an average weight of 31 kg and operate it in parallel.
There is another thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed window on a clean hard surface, or better practice is to put the double-glazed window (double-glazed window) against the wall, if there is For a few, spread a soft clean cloth between them. In order to remove the open frame of the plastic window, you need to open it slightly to access the hinge.
The removal of the front window frame must start with the removal of the upper hinge.
First, you need to press it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), and then a part of the shaft appears from below. Hook the lower part of the spindle with pliers and remove them separately.
After removing the upper hinge, it is necessary to deflect the window slightly from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, and then lift the sash by about 5 cm.
After that, the window sash will also be released from the second lower hinge. To perform this disassembly, it is best to ask a partner who can assure you, because as we have already pointed out, the weight of window sashes and double-glazed windows is 31 kg on average. The fasteners, in our example, are anchor bolts, which are distributed throughout the perimeter from the edge. The maximum distance between the bolts is 701 mm and the minimum is 151 mm (see the figure below). Similarly, fasteners should be located near risers (horizontal or vertical rods that divide the window into several parts) near the upper and lower sides to provide a rigid structure for the plastic window.
When installing plastic windows with our own hands, we choose to use anchor bolts for fastening. This is the most difficult and also one of the most durable fasteners, where you cannot consider the weight of the window.
Means to use special insulating materials, which is determined by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than the humidity on the street, so even if moisture-proof tape is installed, some moisture will penetrate the joints. If the outer contour of the seam is as close as the inner contour, moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its thermal insulation performance. Therefore, when installing and assembling the seam, it must always be observed that the inner is denser than the outer. principle. If the distance between the bottom profile and the bearing wall is less than 41, please use, if the distance is greater than 41, use a diffusion belt with similar characteristics.
And the diffusion tape is glued to the window frame to protect the foam from the external environment and ensure that moisture can escape from the assembly seam during the operation of the plastic window.
In summary, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use diffusion tape on the bottom of the window and on the top and sides of the window profile.
You can watch the process of installing plastic windows with plastic rods in the video. The process is shown at the end of the article.
The opening must be clear of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and reinforced.
After completing all these steps, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (adhesion refers to the adhesion of dissimilar solid and/or liquid surfaces). The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening, and the box should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but on the support bracket, for this you can use plastic wedges.
These wedges are installed below the corners of the frame and the mullion junction, and there must be at least three. For leveling, install the spirit level on the bottom of the glass beads, because in fact the joint part may be deformed when drilling, so it is not always flat in fact.
After that, it is necessary to drill a drill with a spirit level, and drill some further holes in the window frames and walls.
After that, the anchor bolts must be inserted into the drilled holes, but not fully inserted in order to be able to align the frame.

After installing all the fixing screws into the holes, we re-check whether the frame is evenly installed. If everything is normal, we will sink the fixing bolts and screw them into the fixing screws. At this time, wedging will occur and the frame has been fixed in the window hole. .

Low tide can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or, if in good condition, an old one can also be used.
The tide is fixed to the support profile by several self-tapping screws (see figure).
It is recommended to fill polyurethane foam below the tide point to avoid bulging in the rain.
It's time to use polyurethane foam. During the production process, the temperature of the gas cylinder filled with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 21 degrees Celsius.
Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear a special jacket on the barrel and barrel of the applicator gun.
Well, it is recommended to reduce the opening of the window, but at the cost of cheaper building materials (such as bricks or foam).
After we have installed the window frame and landing gear, all the external work of installing the window with our own hands has been completed, and you can return the window sash and glass parts. Kristen To this end, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame. It will be good for your partner to fix the double-glazed window in this position. At this time, you insert the glass beads into the guide rail and hit it carefully with the mallet. Put the glass beads in place under the circumstances (don't forget the plastic clip).
Then you need to install the sash of the window. For this, you need to raise the sash and align the hinges, then insert the mandrel from below and press inward until it stops (here, you can also use a mallet and a neat blow) . When installing the window sill, it must be cut off first.

Then connect it firmly to the support profile, and then level the window sill with a spirit level and place various materials.
The window sill may be inclined a bit from the window to drain the condensate, but it should not sag under any circumstances.
In addition, the space under the window sill must be filled with polyurethane foam. After that, it is necessary to apply some kind of load on it to evenly distribute it over the entire surface of the window sill. 
After the foam has frozen for several hours, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be removed. When designing the load, the foam will not deform the window sill during the drying process. It is very undesirable to leave a gap between the window sill and the frame, if all the gaps are kept sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of this gap. When installing the slope, the first thing to do is to attach a wooden board to the periphery of the window (the inner periphery of the window opening, see picture).

The planks should not protrude from the window opening, but should be flush.
In order to make the slope level, you must use a spirit level to level the board.
The starting contour of the outer window frame. The fixation is performed on the self-tapping bugs that directly knock into the window frame.
The slope will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as neatly as possible. Type profile, the slope will be placed in these grooves. In the part above the window, use a knife or scissors to carefully cut off the shaped groove on the iron because the groove overlaps the upper part of the window. After installing the shape and shape profile on the entire perimeter, the ramp can be inserted. If the seam cannot be attached evenly, white silicone can be applied to it.
Today, I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day. No special skills or expensive equipment are required for this job.
But, of course, you must pay attention to many nuances. Of course, there are several secrets about how to save money when ordering. By the way, it's almost half of the order value. How to buy windows at the same price-at the end of the article.
We have a newly built aerated concrete house in which you need to install 8 windows and a front door.
First, we remove all dimensions from the opening.

Do you remember that I made elevated dormitories around the openings on the three sides (you don't need to be in the dorms below-there are windowsills there).
For the dormitory, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which are mounted on polyurethane foam like all masonry.
The depth of the window during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make holes for typical window sizes-their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or custom windows. We consider the following factors to calculate the final size of the window. On the sides and top of the frame of the wall, there should be a gap of 1 to 2 cm on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. Under all the windows of the factory, there is a support profile with a height of 3 cm, which is required for convenient installation of window sills. In addition, there should be a gap of about 1 cm under the delivery curve of the polyurethane foam. In general, 4 cm horizontal and 6 cm vertical should be subtracted from the internal dimensions of the opening.
Pushing the frame into the opening without gaps is not worth it, because it would be very inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.
It is important to know that the opening portion will greatly increase the construction cost of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make full use of the closed windows of the deaf. If it is a single-story house in the country, you can go outside to wash the windows without any problem, and for ventilation, you can make an open beam (due to the design characteristics, it is several times cheaper than the translation mechanism, but at the same time its width should be larger than the height Much more, more precisely, the height cannot exceed 51 cm). The advantage of the blind zone is that you will not lose the available glass window area. In my case, there are 5 fixed windows with a size of 61 61 cm, two fixed panoramic windows of 1.4 1.7 meters, a fixed rotating window of 0.6 1.3 meters, and an entrance door with partial glass of 0.9 2.3 meters. The above price only includes doors and windows (including hinges, handles and locks). In addition, I need to buy fixing plates, positioning pins, self-tapping screws, sealing tapes, mounting foam, window sills and landing gear for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles. Concrete screwdriver with drill bit, polyurethane foam with gun, tape, fixing plate, aerated concrete dowel and self-tapping screw. I want to remind you again that you cannot save measurement tools. Fix it by unfastening the double-glazed window and using the fixing plate.
The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you need to carefully pull the glass unit out of the frame and then reinstall it.
The staples that hold it are usually fixed very tightly, and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience are required. 
In addition, if we are talking about installation with two hands, the problem for large windows is that unlike the installation frame, the removed glass components cannot be turned over. In addition, penetration fixation requires precise fixation during drilling and absolutely requires an assistant. Installation on the mounting plate is much easier. Install the board by rotating the groove of the frame, and fix it with self-tapping screws with a drill (drill the metal frame inside the frame). After that, on the outside of the frame, except for the base, stick tape-pre-compressed sealing tape on all sides. Used when installing windows in openings with quarter holes.
Protects the polyurethane foam from UV radiation and is therefore damaged. It is easier to install windows in the cold season because the tape expands very slowly in the cold.
When fixing the tape to the outside of the frame, it is best to back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially at a quarter deep.
The purpose of this is that when the polyurethane foam is poured between the frame and the wall, it will not fall on the tape.
Its geometric dimensions are perfect, and its base ideally matches the horizon. If you follow this technique and level each row of masonry to zero, this will happen by itself when building with aerated concrete. I started with small blind windows, they are different from other blind windows because they do not have a window sill. Therefore, we will not use booth profiles.
To support the frame at the bottom of the opening, I used a 7mm thick laminate.
We fixed the windows and marked the location of the mounting holes. We drill holes for the aerated concrete and install special screws.

It is worth paying special attention to not hammering them in with a punch, especially when they are near the edge of the brick-it may break a brick. After that, we pass the screws through the mounting plate. Our next task is to set the window strictly vertically. In the case of small windows, this is not difficult, because the window will not have a diagonal tilt, enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plate, and then take out the laminated decorative strip on the base. Any window must be firmly fixed so that it can only be fixed in the opening in the fixed plate.
The installation foam is mainly used to fill gaps and heat insulation, not to mechanically fix the frame in the opening.
It is not easy to just lift kilograms into the mouth.
I built a ladder and gradually raised the window by 5 cm. Here, you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply horizontality in all corners. On large windows, there is a supporting profile at the bottom, into which the window sill will be installed. I also placed the laminate directly under the supporting profile and removed it immediately after fixing the fixing plate to the wall.
Once, but I decided to use 8 fixed plates because the open window sashes will put pressure on the frame. It takes an average of 31 minutes to install a window. This is a very serious mistake most people make-the protective film on the frame must be removed immediately after installation.
Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the repair, you must remove the film immediately.
If you don't do this, it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (important for the outside of the frame).
But most people have a stereotype that the door should open outward. When installing the door frame, the most important thing is to ensure an even fit around.

Special attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. In order to improve reliability, a second self-tapping screw can be attached to each anchor plate. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when fixed only by the fixing plate.
It should not be warped when opened, and should fit closely to the periphery when closed.
You definitely need to understand the nuances of foam. Foam material is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, so direct sunlight must be avoided. Use tape for this on the outside of the window and tape on the inside-the slope must be plastered or you can choose to paint it with paint. As for the application of foam, it is absolutely impossible to cut it off. The outer shell formed on it protects the open cell structure inside from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the joint between the frame and the wall should be filled accurately to a certain extent to ensure that the excess part does not protrude outward. It is important not to over-operate with the deepening of the pistol nozzle, because please don't forget that there is tape on the outside and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.
A few minutes after filling the joint with foam, it is worthwhile to visually check its condition and lightly tamping it if necessary (until it hardens, which is easy to do). If working at temperatures below +5 degrees, special winter foam must be used.
Next, we install the accessories and check how the window opens. If the window does not open properly or is stuck, it means that there was an error in installing the window.
It is possible that not all corners of the frame are strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinge and lock.
The windows and doors must be left for one day until the foam is completely cured. We are entering the final stage. Use a jigsaw saw to cut off the excess part and place it under the frame of the supporting profile.
It should be remembered that the depth of the window frame in the frame is 2 cm, which is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, please don't forget to remove the surrounding protective film. 
We install the window sill strictly horizontally, or incline a little (1 degree) from the window. We use a special board to close the edges, which should be glued with super glue.
As a support for setting the level, you can use the decorative strip on the window sill itself or on the wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above to prevent it from being lifted by the foam.
Then fill the entire foundation plane with foam from below. As with window frames, the expansion of foam should be controlled, and a knife should not be used to cut it. Just tamp it until it freezes. 
We cut it to a certain length, fixed it on the window frame with self-tapping screws (the joints had been lubricated with silicone sealant before), filled the base with polyurethane foam and loaded it. Don't forget to remove the protective film from the frame, window sill and landing gear. Installation is not difficult, you can handle a lot of work alone.
After completing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15,000 rubles in installation costs. 
Although it looks complicated on the surface, installing plastic windows with your own hands is a fairly simple process. 
In fact, the technique of installing plastic windows is a set of fairly simple operations performed in a certain order. In order to facilitate understanding, I will adhere to this principle when introducing materials.
In this article, we will consider the technology of installing plastic windows into existing window blocks.

The main feature of the wall structure made of wood is the draft of the wall. The wall draft of each specific house depends on many factors, such as the moisture content of the material (wood) when the wooden house is installed, the quality of the caulking work, and the assembly quality of the wooden house itself (fitting the surface).

For each specific building, this process is quite long and individual. Therefore, before installing the windows in the wooden house, any finishing work is usually carried out, and it is recommended to withstand at least 1 year to stabilize the wooden house.
This is due to the fact that the most severe shrinkage occurred in the first two years after the frame was installed. But even after that, the contraction continued, albeit not much.
Therefore, it is mandatory to use window boxes to install windows in wooden log cabins, which can protect the window frames from the mechanical influence that may occur during the shrinking process of the wall.
The third part of this article will cover this issue in more detail.
At the same time, you need to keep the following in mind: Under no circumstances should plastic windows be installed directly in the frame of the house.

Since the technology for installing plastic windows is very specific, the tools and materials used are also very specific. Without it, all work cannot be performed correctly. Problems may arise in obtaining the necessary materials.
For example, if I bought something in a store and couldn't find something, I bought it with cash from a worker (installer) of a window company. They have consumable materials and there is no problem with purchasing them.
Therefore, in order to install windows with high quality and correctly, tools and materials must be prepared. As an illustration, the photo shows some of the tools and materials needed to install the windows.
As we all know, the support (bottom) profile in the window structure is the weakest point of thermal conductivity. Later, a fixed drainage device will be drilled during the installation process (this will further reduce the thermal conductivity). Therefore, in order not to deteriorate the thermal insulation performance of the window, it is recommended to foam it, especially because it does not require time and large costs (see photo). 
The entire internal volume of the bottom profile must be foamed to the full depth (using the nozzle on the assembly gun).
It is best to do this one day before installation to allow time for the foam to polymerize.

After removing the old frame, it is necessary to prepare the existing window block for installing the new window. Without it, the window company will not practice foaming the bottom profile. Check the condition of the window frame, if there is damage (rot), please remove (shave, cut), and use fire prevention measures to treat the window frame, because there will be no such opportunity.
Next, mark on the window block (window installation plane). For this, you can use both building floors and plumb lines. From the perspective of the thermal operation mode of the window structure, it is recommended to install the windows along the depth of the window box opening at a distance equal to 1/3 of the street width.
On the other hand, if you plan to insulate the house externally after installing the windows, you can move the window installation plane closer to the outside.
As a result, you will get the width of the internal window sill (beautiful, functional), and the construction and assembly joints of the window (due to the subsequent insulation of the wall) will not lose its thermal insulation function.
Since we are talking about installing windows in wooden frames (respectively, window stops are also wooden), it is important to consider the following. 
If you do not take other measures, you can only limit yourself to the requirements, which means that the inner layer of the assembly joint (foam) must be protected from both indoor and street sides at the same time, and then the inner part of the assembly joint can be wetted from the side. Layer (considering the wall material) the inner surface of the window itself.
From the moisture in the foam on the side of the adjacent surface of the window glass, it is necessary to install an additional moisture-proof and moisture-proof layer around the periphery of the window glass itself. To this end, I used a roll of insulating material under the window glass block, and used polyethylene foam tape around the periphery of the glass block in the window installation plane in the window glass block. This operation is not provided. After delivering the window to the customer, assemble the window (frame, double-glazed window, glass beads, protective film) as shown in the picture. If you zoom in on the label, you can see that energy-saving glass is used in the window structure. 
Same as the next glass above, 11-same as above, but between the second and third glass (in millimeters), 4-energy-saving glass is 4 mm thick. Therefore, the decoding of the glass unit formula is as follows: Use double-layer glass units (three pieces of glass with a thickness of 4: 4 1 + 4 1 + 4 ). For energy-saving glass, the total width of the glass unit is 33 (). To fix the frame in the window glass, the double-glazed window must be removed and removed. Starting from the long side of the window, then from the short side, assemble in reverse order, removing the beads. 
Attach the chisel to the junction between the window glass bead in the central part of the glass bead and the frame, and tap lightly on the chisel handle to knock the glass bead out of the groove. Remove all the glass beads that fix the glass unit in the window frame one by one. It is best to wear gloves, otherwise your hands may hurt the corners of the glass unit.

If there is a tailgate opening in one of the frame doors, there is no need to remove the glass unit; it is easier and faster to remove the beam assembly itself.
After performing the operation, only the frame itself is retained.
To fix the frame to the window glass, an electric drill must be used to mark and drill holes along the side and upper side of the frame (when drilling, don't forget the presence of steel bars in the profile: the drill must be used for metal).
The number of holes and their positions depend on the size of the window, but the outermost holes in the corners of the frame must be at least 16 cm apart. The corners of the frame should not be strictly fixed, because the window material will significantly change its linear dimensions as the temperature drops.
I took 6 screws to install each window, the size is 91×121 cm. Remove the glass beads, remove the glass components, drill the screw holes, and then install the frame.
In order to mechanically fix the frame, I used structural screws (self-tapping screws), which is the simplest and most economical method. If there is no thermal insert in the structure of the window unit and the frame cannot be mechanically fixed in the installation plane, it must be fixed with a fixing plate. Although the window installation plane has been pre-marked, all subsequent operations must be carried out very carefully. Align the frame in the installation plane on the mounting wedge in advance, and use a level to check the horizontality, vertical installation and the deflection of the frame in the plane.
The horizontal position of the frame is achieved by adjusting the height of the building wedges. By moving them relative to each other, the horizon itself can be checked from the building level.
If everything is set up correctly, use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to fix the frame in this position instead of tightening the screws along the upper side of the frame. Do not immediately tighten the self-tapping screws to the stop position, and do not tighten them. The self-tapping screws are about 1 cm each.
Second, after the frame is initially fixed, you need to check the uniformity of the side clearance (you may have to move the frame to the right or left).

Third, no matter how strong the window structure is, the self-tapping screw of the size shown can be made into a barrel screw from a rectangular frame. After installing the frame, it is found that the uniformity of the gap is satisfactory, and the horizontal and verticality of the window can be maintained. Use self-tapping screws to fix the upper side of the frame, carefully tighten the remaining screws on the side of the frame, and then check the horizontality and verticality of the frame again.
After fixing the upper tapping screw, it is meaningless to check the tilt of the window in the installation plane, but it is not superfluous to ensure that the frame is not barrel-shaped.
Don't forget the reverse order of installing the glass beads. First is short, then long.
After the window frame is mechanically fixed in the window block, it is necessary to replace the previously removed double-glazed windows and beams. Before that, I had nothing to do with windows), when I placed the first window, I first attached the protective tape to the frame, and then fixed it in the opening. However, because the tape is very sticky, I have to endure a lot of pain.
Then, after fixing the windows and installing the double-glazed windows, install all the protective tapes on the frame.
Therefore, the window has been installed and fixed in the window block.

We installed moisture-proof tape from the inside of the room along the periphery of the window frame.
When installing the tape, it is necessary to consider that at the seam of the tape, the upper tape should be stacked on the lower seam, so that in the case of condensation, moisture will not gather at the seam, but Will scroll down. After installing the tape from the inside of the room and fixing it between the window frame and the wall opening, there should be no density so that the foam will not escape into the room when it foams.
Here, the operation we did is almost the same as the operation from the inside, but we did not fix the tape, instead, we brought it into the plane of the window in a way that did not interfere with the subsequent blistering of the central layer of the seam. I also fixed a bar wrapped in plastic wrap below.
The foam technology is usually described in detail on the foam tank itself. I draw your attention to things that window companies don't usually do.
In order to obtain high-quality foam, it is necessary to spray water on the foaming point before and after foaming.
The meaning of this operation lies in the fact that the process of foam polymerization occurs due to atmospheric moisture. Lack of moisture will result in poor polymerization quality. Don't try to fill the cavity of the entire assembly joint with foam from the beginning. First, this can be corrected later. Secondly, cutting off the excess foam is an additional consumption of foam, and the quality of the assembly joint will only deteriorate due to this. When installing the window from the heating block to the wall, the joints will foam. Watch later, share copy link information, shop, click to unmute. If playback does not start immediately, try restarting your device. More videos More video sharing including playlists An error occurred while retrieving shared information. Please try again later. After foaming the seam, spray the foam surface with water again and retain the entire structure in this state during the foam polymerization process.
The next day, we inspected the foam seams, and if no other work is needed, straighten the protective tape and fix it in its final position. To fix the tape, I used polyurethane foam and the field application of construction stapler.
We installed tape with foil on the underside of the window glass to protect the seams where the window sill is installed. The installation of the window sill itself can be done later, for example when completing the slope of the window. Unlike window sills, drainage pipes must be installed when installing windows. The drain pipe can be self-made or purchased. When installing, it should be considered that the drain pipe should be installed on the self-tapping (bottom) profile, and the protruding (overhanging) lower part of the window frame should protect the position where the drain pipe and the supporting profile are connected from above to prevent atmospheric moisture and lateral rainfall. When the water flows down from the window plane... After installing the drain pipe, the space between the drain pipe and the bottom profile of the window will be additionally foamed.
We have removed the protective films, which are designed to protect the contours during transportation and storage. From the perspective of the installation technology of the window structure, all installation operations have been completed. The assembly seams are protected from the inside to the outside.

Taking into account the characteristics of the wall material, we protect it from capillary moisture absorption from the wall along the periphery of the installation joint. In addition, the support profile is insulated. The drain pipe is installed.
Another problem is that from an aesthetic point of view, it is almost unreasonable to leave the window in this form after installation. To complete the work, slopes need to be trimmed, window sills installed, etc.
But this is beyond the scope of this article, and also beyond the requirements for installing window structures. Secondly, there are too many finishing options and finishing functions related to specific options, so this question is a separate topic. How to install blinds on plastic windows?

How to install mosquito nets on plastic windows? If you like this article, please share it with your friends on social media. Unfortunately, I haven't read this article before. The windows are installed in the apartment by a professional company. I have been suffering for several years. Leaking. In winter, the temperature near the windows is about 6°C. I have tried to insulate the slope, but the result is not yet reasonable. The detailed instructions in this article suggest that you delete the window and go through the entire stage again. Certain things may get better. In the end, I found the information I needed. Then there was some nonsense, there was a lot of water, but the useful ingredients were very small, and now I install plastic windows by myself. Then, paying for the company's work is expensive, and quality cannot be guaranteed.
Guys don’t do experiments by themselves. If you don’t have time and professional training and experience, you can entrust them to a proven team. During the installation process, I messed up myself, and the masters had to correct my mistakes for a long time...
It just so happens that the masters also messed up, so if you have a little experience and the materials provided in this article, you can do all the work efficiently, even better than the hired team. Proved based on my own experience. 
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How to get rid of wasps and wasps on the balcony? Record how easy it is to glaze the balcony with your own hands: the choice of materials, step-by-step hints to record how to record how to adjust plastic windows in winter, how to measure the openings of plastic windows? How to get rid of wasps and wasps on the balcony? World's Most Dangerous Flights | Mechanical Failure | Free Documentary